Harris Tweed: A History of Scotland's Iconic Fabric

Picture this: a lone farmer, standing resilient against the biting wind of the Scottish Highlands, his tweed jacket offering warmth and comfort against the chill. The fabric is rough to the touch yet sturdy, built to endure the elements—just like the landscape around him.

That material? You’re likely thinking of Harris Tweed.

Harris Tweed isn’t just a fabric; it’s a symbol of tradition, craftsmanship, and heritage.

It’s a tweed cloth that’s handwoven and finished by islanders in their homes in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, made from pure virgin wool that is dyed and spun 100% locally.

At Asbury & Pell, we proudly stock a selection of authentic Mens Harris Tweed clothing; Here, we take a moment to discover the rich history of this iconic material, guiding you through its who, what, when, where, how, and why.

Let’s start with the words; Tweed, and Harris…

Our Harris Tweed story begins with its name.

Originally, the fabric was known as "tweel," the Scots’ word for twill—a reference to how it was woven using a twill weave rather than a plain (or tabby) weave.

Somewhere along the way, "tweel" transformed into "tweed," and several theories attempt to explain why.

One of the most popular stories dates back to the 1830s. A London merchant, upon receiving a letter from a Hawick firm that mentioned "tweels," misread the term.

Believing it to be a trade name inspired by the River Tweed, which winds through the Scottish Borders, he began marketing the material as "tweed."

The name stuck, and from that moment on, the world became familiar with this unique cloth under its new name: tweed.

As for Harris, this refers specifically to the Isle of Harris in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, where much of the traditional tweed production took place.

The name Harris Tweed is used to differentiate this particular handwoven cloth from other types of tweed, emphasising its origin and the unique methods used by the islanders. Let’s explore this further.

Where is Harris Tweed created?

Harris Tweed’s origins are closely tied to the Isle of Harris in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. In the 1840s, the Countess of Dunmore, who had estates on the island, saw commercial potential in the local tweed.

She recognised the exceptional quality of the cloth crafted by the islanders and began promoting it to the British aristocracy as a luxurious fabric for outdoor wear.

Today, Harris Tweed production remains rooted in the Outer Hebrides, with three key mills that continue the tradition:

Harris Tweed Hebrides: Based in Shawbost on the Isle of Lewis, this mill plays a major role in preserving the heritage of Harris Tweed while producing cloth for modern markets.
Carloway Mill: Also located on the Isle of Lewis, this mill is known for its focus on small-batch production and bespoke orders, catering to a niche market of Harris Tweed enthusiasts.
The Kenneth Mackenzie Ltd Mill: Situated in Stornoway, the capital of the Isle of Lewis, this mill is the oldest Harris Tweed mill still in operation. Established in 1906, it has a rich history of producing high-quality tweed and continues to be a vital part of the Harris Tweed tradition.

Each of these mills contributes to the creation of Harris Tweed, working closely with public-facing companies that handle the commercial aspects

Image Credit: The Times

Why was Harris Tweed created?

Life in the Outer Hebrides has always been defined by a rugged landscape and a harsh climate, with cold winds and heavy rains coming off the Atlantic Ocean.

The islanders needed clothing to withstand these elements, keeping them warm and dry as they worked outdoors.

Tweed, with its thick, tightly woven wool, was the perfect solution. It provided warmth, durability, and water resistance—qualities ideal for the island’s fishermen, crofters, and shepherds.

The cloth was also used for trade or barter, eventually becoming a form of currency amongst islanders; it was not unusual for rents to be paid in blankets or lengths of clò-mòr.

How is Harris Tweed created?

Today, the creation of Harris Tweed is a blend of age-old traditions, adaptations during the Industrial Revolution, and the modern processes that keep this iconic fabric relevant.

Hand-crafting

The production of Harris Tweed begins with pure virgin wool, sourced primarily from Scotland.

Traditionally, the wool would be dyed using natural materials found on the islands, like plants, lichens, and mosses, creating rich, earthy tones.

After dyeing, the wool was hand-spun into yarn and woven by the islanders using foot-powered looms in their homes.

This handweaving process is a crucial part of what makes Harris Tweed distinctive, as each piece of cloth reflects the skills and individual style of the weaver.

The woven fabric would then be “finished,” which involves washing, shrinking, and brushing the tweed to soften it.

The Industrial Revolution

The Industrial Revolution significantly changed the textile industry, and Harris Tweed production adapted accordingly.

While large-scale factories took over much of Britain’s textile production, the Outer Hebrides remained committed to traditional handweaving methods, incorporating technological advancements into spinning and dyeing, to become more efficient.

The 19th century saw the establishment of water-powered mills on the islands, which could dye and spin wool on a larger scale while maintaining the handweaving tradition.

Introducing these mills meant that the islanders could focus more on the weaving process, enabling a more consistent and higher volume of Harris Tweed production.

Modern Methods

Today, Harris Tweed production still respects the core traditional methods, with some updates for consistency and efficiency.

High-quality wool is dyed in a wide range of colours at local mills, allowing for a greater variety of patterns than earlier. The wool is then spun into yarn using modern machinery, ensuring a uniform quality.

The yarn is distributed to independent weavers across the islands, who continue the time-honoured practice of handweaving in their homes, often using looms passed down through generations.

This is a legal requirement for Harris Tweed, as the cloth must be woven in the homes of weavers in the Outer Hebrides to carry the name.

The finishing process is where the final inspection takes place, with each length of tweed being thoroughly checked before it earns the iconic Harris Tweed Orb certification mark, guaranteeing its authenticity.

Why is Harris Tweed so sought after?

Harris Tweed fought back against a period of decline in the late 1900s to re-establish a reputation as one of the world’s most desirable fabrics.

Here are the key reasons why Harris Tweed products are so sought after.

Harris Tweed is known for its high-quality craftsmanship, with each piece handwoven by skilled weavers using time-honoured methods.
The dense weave and natural lanolin in the wool make Harris Tweed inherently water-resistant, protecting you against the elements.
One of the standout features of Harris Tweed is its rich array of colours and patterns. The wool is dyed before it’s spun, allowing the blending of colours to create vibrant, heathered effects. No two pieces of Harris Tweed are exactly alike.
Harris Tweed has a classic, timeless appeal that has remained fashionable for decades. Its rugged yet refined look suits various styles, from traditional jackets to contemporary accessories like bags, caps, and shoes.
Every piece of Harris Tweed is handwoven by islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, a requirement legally protected by the Harris Tweed Act of 1993. This means that each piece carries a genuine connection to the heritage and culture of Scotland’s Outer Hebrides.
The Harris Tweed Orb trademark, which certifies the authenticity of the fabric, represents a mark of quality and tradition that customers around the world recognise and trust.
The cloth is made from 100% pure virgin wool, a renewable resource that is biodegradable at the end of its life cycle.
The production process itself is environmentally friendly. Wool is dyed and spun locally, reducing transportation emissions, and the handweaving process requires minimal energy compared to industrial looms.
The durability of Harris Tweed also means that garments and accessories made from it can last for decades, reducing the need for frequent replacements and contributing to a slower, more mindful approach to fashion.
The wool used in Harris Tweed provides excellent insulation, making it ideal for colder weather.
The material is breathable, allowing it to regulate temperature and keep the wearer comfortable, whether braving a cold wind or enjoying a crisp autumn day.

Our Harris Tweed offerings

At Asbury & Pell, we proudly present a curated selection of 100% genuine Harris Tweed products that celebrate the rich heritage and craftsmanship of this iconic fabric:

Our range includes two stylish Harris Tweed jackets and a waistcoat, all crafted from authentic Harris Tweed. These pieces are perfect for any occasion—whether you’re dressing up for a special event or enjoying the great outdoors